Dirt to Glass: Elevating Michigan Wine from the Ground Up

Traverse City welcomed the Michigan grape and wine community on Aug. 21–22, 2025, for the fourth annual Dirt to Glass™ conference. Organized by Michigan State University Extension, Michigan State University AgBioResearch and Intentional Agriculture, this year’s gathering centered on the theme “From Intention to Impact,” a call to transform conversation into action across every part of the industry.

Day one: Knowledge shared, challenges confronted

The first day unfolded at the Cathedral Barn at Historic Barns Park, beginning with opening reflections from Amanda Danielson of Intentional Agriculture and Paolo Sabbatini, PhD, of Michigan State University. They reminded attendees that Dirt to Glass was created not just as a conference, but as a place to bring together soil science, viticulture, winemaking and the full spectrum of wine professionals, from distribution to sales. They stressed that the 2025 program was shaped by feedback from last year’s conference and developed with the help of a volunteer planning committee made up of industry leaders committed to delivering timely, relevant topics year after year.

The keynote address by Katie Nelson, vice president of Winemaking at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, provided a rare perspective into the dynamics of scaling a premium wine brand. Nelson described the balance required to produce world-class wine at volume while sustaining strong grower partnerships. She emphasized that premium positioning relies on consistent quality, respect for farming, and a steadfast commitment to sustainability.

Tony Jacobson, a sparkling wine consultant who has attended every edition of Dirt to Glass, reflected, “Especially powerful was Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ Chief Winemaker Katie Nelson's candid talk about the important moves they have made to reshape their business to accommodate the current challenging wine market trends.”

The morning continued with a conversation between Nelson and Bryan Ulbrich of Left Foot Charley, who addressed one of Michigan’s most pressing questions: How can Michigan’s wines command the value they deserve? Both encouraged the industry to move beyond competing on price and instead to lead with authenticity, trust and storytelling. Scientific presentations deepened the discussion. Sabbatini introduced the potential of PIWI grape varieties, fungus-resistant hybrids already successful in several parts of Europe, including France and Italy. Sabbatini highlighted their potential to reduce chemical inputs in Michigan vineyards while still delivering quality wines, thanks to their genetic closeness to vinifera combined with improved disease resistance.

Following this, Bruno Basso, PhD, of Michigan State University demonstrated how soil carbon capture and precision management can regenerate vineyards while improving profitability. He underscored the importance of vineyard practices, such as cover cropping and advanced precision agriculture tools, in maintaining high carbon storage and supporting resilient vines capable of producing high-quality fruit. His examples from ongoing Michigan research projects illustrated how science is guiding more sustainable vineyard management.

In the afternoon, Tim Godfrey of Lake Michigan College led a blind tasting exercise that stripped away varietal and brand identity, challenging participants to evaluate wines on their own merits. The exercise sparked conversations about how, even though branding and perception shape the consumer experience, it is ultimately quality and authenticity that matter most, shining through in wines crafted with the intention of capturing the essence of their origin and vineyard practices.

The day concluded with a grower-winemaker panel moderated by Lee Lutes of Black Star Farms. Panelists spoke candidly about the realities of farming in Michigan, disease pressures, labor shortages and unpredictable weather. “As a newcomer to Michigan viticulture, I’m very thankful to have the opportunity to connect with others in the business,” grower John Toigo said, underscoring the importance of collaboration.

Finally, an interactive synthesis session with a live real-time survey of all the participants captured ideas and priorities for the year ahead. Barry O’Brien of O’Brien Vineyards summed up the energy of the day, saying, “Great conference this year! I believe this event is the catalyst of communication for our industry here in Michigan. I’m fired up!”

Day two: From concept to canopy

The second day brought participants into the vineyards of Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas, where they saw firsthand how research and innovation translate into practice. At Lyon’s Vineyard, discussions focused on site selection, soil texture, slope and irrigation design, fundamentals that determine long-term vineyard success.

At Chateau Chantal, participants explored trial blocks of PIWI varieties and discussed the resulting wines, sparking debate about their future role in Michigan. Le Tre Sirene showcased soil health practices such as cover crops and compost use, paired with drone technology that maps vine vigor and guides decision-making from planting to canopy management to pesticide application. A live demonstration of spraying drones from Basso’s lab at Michigan State University highlighted the potential of this technology to transform vineyard practices.

At Rove Estate, the focus shifted to biodiversity and ecological design, where cover crops and under-vine weed management were presented as strategies to boost vineyard resilience and productivity. Isidor’s Choice illustrated how trellis systems and pruning decisions affect airflow, fruit quality and disease management, reinforcing the importance of tailoring vineyard architecture to each site.

The final stop at Moreno Vineyard emphasized long-term stewardship. Composting and microbial enrichment were paired with demonstrations from Simonit & Sirch on pruning techniques adapted for Michigan’s cultivars and climate, highlighting how careful training can enhance vine longevity and productivity.

Participants found these demonstrations particularly impactful.

“I am very interested in reducing the amount of synthetic chemicals used in the vineyards and increasing the use of cover crops, compost and natural amendments; the DTG conference was a valuable resource in furthering these goals,” Marcel Lenz of Leelanau Cellar said.

Over lunch at Rove Estate, conversations flowed easily among growers, researchers and winemakers.

Ron Bates, PhD, of Michigan State University Extension noted, “Dirt to Glass provides a unique insight into how to improve the wine business post-harvest, while featuring growers that have implemented improved soil health techniques.”

From an external perspective, Brian Jessen of Inland Desert Nursery added, “Out of all the territories I sell grapevines to, Michigan seems to be ahead of the curve thanks to this conference. Dirt to Glass focused on soil health, composting, and organic farming more so than any other viticulture region in the United States that I have visited.”

A path forward

Across both days, a clear message emerged: Michigan’s grape and wine industry must embrace research and innovation to ensure long term environmental and economic sustainability. Dirt to Glass 2025 blended rigorous science with hands-on demonstration, ensuring that the theme “From Intention to Impact” was more than words, it was an experience. As one participant put it, “This is where Michigan wine charts its future, from the vineyard soil to the glass on the table.”

Planning has already begun for the 2026 Dirt to Glass conference. If you have suggestions or input to share with the planning committee, please contact dirt2glass@intentional-agriculture.org. 

Executive committee

Jennifer Berkey, MSU Extension
Amanda Danielson, Intentional Agriculture
Veronica Dragovich, MSU Extension
Kate Edwards, MSU Extension
Paolo Sabbatini, MSU Department of Horticulture

Planning committee

Andrew Backlin, Modales
Lee Lutes, Black Star Farm
Esmaeil Nasrollahiazar, MSU Extension
Derrick Vogel, Folklor Wine & Cider
Paul Hannah, Meijer
Maxwell Eichberg, Stranger Wine Company
Megan Barlow, Wilbur-Ellis Agribusiness
Bonnie Hardin, Mari Vineyards
Tim Godfrey, Lake Michigan College
Craig Cunningham, viticulturist